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Arma and US legal Prepared chassis build

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Author Topic: Arma and US legal Prepared chassis build  (Read 12151 times)
George Herrin
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« on: December 23, 2006, 04:39:23 pm »


Well guys I am in the process of building a new chassis for 07. It will be a chassis legal for several organizations. Will be 4 inches of the ground front and rear and will be a MTD chassis. I started this morning tore it down and welded the rear bearing cassette mounts on. I will do a step by step pictured build. AND this build will be available od CD once I am finished for those interested. So here we go. This is what I started with. I am on dail up at home so keep in mind how much time this is gonna take to upload and transfer pics.   



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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride

George Herrin
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« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2006, 04:40:22 pm »


Here is the tore down chassis main parts.  These are the main parts I start with. two side panels, the front sub frame, and rear panel plate, and running boards.

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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
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« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2006, 04:41:33 pm »

OK with the chassis apart I mount the rear bearing cassettes before I do anything else why you ask. Because its just what I do. No paticular reason other than the parts are easier to handle while apart. It is very important to mount the holders so when everything is assembled it is in direct line with original transaxle. US says you can move the axle up but not forward or rearward. So this is waht we do to lower the chassis.




You want to make sure that both sides are the same in the case of this chassis I measured from the front of the frame side panel to the front edge of the cassette holder, (28-7/8 ) and from the top of the side panel to the top of the holder (2-1/4) and be sure you have it square to the frame. All these measurements are decided using the shortest tire I run. And if using adjustable cassettes you will generally have as much as 3/8 up and down adjustability in your ride hieght.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
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« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2006, 04:43:41 pm »



OK now that they are placed I will weld them into place. I use a century gass-less welder. It goes both ways but just use it gas less. It welds Through most paints on most chassis's if it has a clean starting spot then take your time and let the heat and flux do its job. I do however clean most of the surfaces before I start so to make it easier. Flux core is forgiving but the biggest draw back is the mess it leaves when done. Most of the time a good wire brush will clean it all up. Here is a picture of my welder and the welded cassettes



Thats all for now back off to the shop to do some more work. I only came in this morning for breakfast and have a banquet to attend this evening so I want to get some more work done before I go. Will do most of my picture posting at night from here on out.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
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« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2006, 04:44:43 pm »


Ok here you see some points you must cut or grind away. The guides so that you can get a bigger pulley on there for speed, The other points you will see why in pics to come


This is to show you how and where I cut the guides off at



This is the very front of the sub frame. You cut the lower lip off square with the rest of the chassis. This is a legal cut in ARMA and us



Here you see where I have cleaned the inside croners of the front sub frame for welding which again you will see why in pics to come.


This is the rear frame panel and again you see I have cleaned for welding


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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
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BTMRA Veteran
*****

Karma: +3/-1
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Gender: Male
Posts: 1254



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« Reply #5 on: December 23, 2006, 04:46:11 pm »




Ok here I am assembling the two side panel frames to the front sub frame. I use a straight edge to get it all straight.



here I use a dail caliper to make sure it is all straight. This is important. Once I am happy I tighten all the bolts tight.



I angle cut each end so it fits snug end to end.



Then I lay my frame rails in this is how I discretly stiffen my chassis. Then I clamp them in sevral locations from both directions using c-clamps up and down to make sure they are tightly in the frame. Now before welding and using the calipers same as in above picture I want to make sure they are straight on the rear section before I weld them in. The next photos will show the welded in rails.




As you can see the rails are welded in. See how I don't do a solid weld end to end. Not needed, and the extra heat would warp the chassis.



Now this is inside the side frame panels. I use the same tubing to stiffen the box or tunnel of the frame. Makes for a solid chassis and it isn't add much extra weight either.



Ok here you see where the E.C. Distributing tranny plate buts right up against the front sub frame. ALSO it goes in the tunnel and sets on top of the frame rail supports. You can bolt or weld it in I choose to weld it then it becomes a part of the frame and helps stiffen it.

 

Here you see that I have mounted a tranny lower case. Then you slip the plate bushing into the the hole which self aligns on the input shaft.



As you can see it aligns perfectly. Now tack it in place and then remove the tranny case wnd weld it completely in.



Here it is welded completely in place. This bushing supports the weakest link (the input shaft) of the 700 tranny and with this setup if you break the input shaft it is due to case fatigue or worn or bad bearings.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
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Gender: Male
Posts: 1254



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« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2006, 04:49:19 pm »




 Ok heres the rails and tranny plate from the bottom all done and welded in.



Ok here you can see inside the tunnel. You can see the bushing sticking up from the plate this supports the tranny input all the way up to the case bottom. Also if you can enlarge the pic you will see how the rear plate is welded in not just bolted but all done on the inside.



Ok here you can see the support I build that fits inside the dash. I use the same tubing as I did on the frame 3/4 thin wal. It has a place for the shaft to go thru and placement of the upper column and bearing support.



here you can see how it fits snugly inside the dash. This dash support has taken a 60 mph end over end kart wheel with out busting the plastic dash




Ok on to the steering column and its bearing setup. Here is another product E.C sells, its a universal weld in bearing mount and 5/8 spherical bearing. These work well on uneven and even surfaces where you mount on metal to weld them in I use one top and bottom.



Here is the lower steering column support and bearing welded in. Notice in the pictures how it fits right in the pocket where the oem parts were. you will also notice how I use 5/8 lock collars one one top of lower bearing and one on the bottom of upper bearing. I use a grinder and put a small notch so I can get to set screw.



Here is an overall view of the dash and support and cloumn all in.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
Administrator
BTMRA Veteran
*****

Karma: +3/-1
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1254



WWW
« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2006, 04:50:15 pm »


Here you can see where I have finally come back and cut the whole and slot for the rear axle. Doing it this way allows me to unbolt the cassettes and simply drop the whole axle out the bottom.



This is a view from inside to show how I cut right thru the frame rail I installed for stiffnes. Now that I have my cut out I will go ahead and weld each side to the edge.



This photo shows how I weld the rear plate in. Idea is to make this thing one solid frame assembly.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
Administrator
BTMRA Veteran
*****

Karma: +3/-1
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1254



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« Reply #8 on: December 23, 2006, 04:51:03 pm »


Here you can see I have rebolted the running/foot boards on and I will show you how I open the center-remove the bar yet maintain support for the boards.



First thing I do is tack weld the rod to the frame on the inside of the frame itself. Once both sides are tacked in place I cut the center out.



Here you can see the cut and fully welded remaining bit of rod. Much more to come so stay tuned.
I have gotten the axle in fender hieght and seat mount done. Rear brakes done Frame notched for the sprocket, tranny pully belt guides and clutch mounted. All yesterday evening.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
Administrator
BTMRA Veteran
*****

Karma: +3/-1
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1254



WWW
« Reply #9 on: December 23, 2006, 04:52:03 pm »



Here I have mounted the E.C. Distributing adjustable cassette. They are 35.00 each. I chose the wrong holders so instead of cutting the whole lip off I notched them so the adjustment screw



here you can see I used 3/8 allen bolts to bolt them in.



here you can see where I drew my cut lines to noch the rear of the frame for sprocket clearance.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
Administrator
BTMRA Veteran
*****

Karma: +3/-1
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1254



WWW
« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2006, 04:52:57 pm »



Okay using the trusty ole sawzall I cut the notch out for the sprocket


here's another angle on the sprocket and the notch cut. Any questions or need different views let me know. This weekend I tended to work and forget to get the as I go Pictures.


More on the build. Here you see I am seting up the brake system. These are not new brakes but some I had and want to try on this build.


here is an overall view of the brakes and rotor. Yup its a big rotor but the bigger it is the less force needed to stop it. It is a motorcycle rotor redrilled to fit the MCP brake hub. Everything is setup so the rotor hub is against the bearing hub and I put a slit collar outside the brake hub to hold it all in place. The caliper is bolted to the frame with a couple shims between it aqnd frame to align it to the rotor.


Here you can see the clearance between caliper and tire. Tire 19 inches from center of frame. Thats the outer sidewall.


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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
Administrator
BTMRA Veteran
*****

Karma: +3/-1
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1254



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« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2006, 04:53:41 pm »



here you can see the lock collars E.C.Sells 4.95 and I use them outside each axle bearing like in the pic to keep axle in place, both sides of wheel hubs and both sides of brake and sprocket hubs. In this build case the brake hub is against the bearing hub so it only required one side. A total of 9 on this setup where I usually use 10.


With the rear axle in and brake mounted and I am happy with all that I moved the the tranny pulley belt guides while I got it all upside down. Here you can see how I do my belt guides. I weld flanged nuts to the plate and then I simply screw bolts in for my guides.


Here is a good view of the flanged nuts welded in place. The setup also makes for a fast removal setup if you are in a hurry.


here is an overall view of rear axle in place, with tranny pulley and clutch and guides in place. Also notice the center of the running board rod is cut out as described in earlier details. This gives wide open access to everything.


Now on the top side of the chassis with the axle and wheels on I turn to working on fender mount and seat mount for wheel clearance. Anyone taking a mtd apart or knows them knows the full fenders are mounted on a channel type pedestal. I reuse these. I cut the factory seat bracket the inside width of these pedestals.


Now this is an example of my building taking over and me not getting the pictures I wanted. But here you can see where I have added a 1" square tube to the top of the regular feander mounts. And you can see how I have welded the cut seat mount flush with the top of the tubing.


here is a better view of what I have done. You can see at the rear where I added an upright support with same size tubing. Fender will bolt down on top of all this and seat will bolt into the slotted grooves where it gives you the ability to slide the seat forward or backwards the original amount. ALL legal and great for fine tuning the handling of your mower. Fenders will still bolt into the original holes in the running boards giving the appearance they havn't been moved. I will get pictures of this up to show you.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
Administrator
BTMRA Veteran
*****

Karma: +3/-1
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Gender: Male
Posts: 1254



WWW
« Reply #12 on: December 23, 2006, 04:54:15 pm »




Since I am getting so much done in a short amount of time I decided before I quit I will mount the front axle beam. I clamp two straight edges to the top of the frame I pull the axle up to it and center it equally side to side and clamp it in place.


here is another look at it clamp up. I now tack it all in place remove the clamps and weld it up.


front beam welded in place and ready to start front end assembly. Whew I am tired now. Bed time enjoy the pictures and if ya got any questions ask away.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
Administrator
BTMRA Veteran
*****

Karma: +3/-1
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1254



WWW
« Reply #13 on: December 23, 2006, 04:54:49 pm »



Ok here is my clutch pedal. I drilled 5/8 holes thru the side of the running board and ran the pedal thru the running board thru the frame. I used a 5/8 i.d Bushing and with it slid on the pedal welded it to the bottom of the running board. This will support it and keep alot of the rattle previous mowers have had due to the sides of the running boards wallering out allowing the pedal to bounce.



Here is the brake pedal, I used an arm from an extra steering kit I had for the limkage mount. I slotted the running board so it sticks up thru it on the top side. Notice I don't have the center mount on this pedal. It doesnt recieve all the vibration the clutch pedal gets from the belt. So it isn't needed.



Here is both pedals mounted as you can see I got ahead of myself in work again instead of picture taking. I will get to everything you see here in up coming pictures.



Here is my rod mount for my clutch pedal. I make the arm then weld it to the 5/8 lock collar. I them slip it over the end of the pedal and uuse a bolt instead of the set screw to lock it down. I drill into the pedal and tap it so that I am screwing not only thru the collar but into the pedal also. Makes for a sure tight fit.


 Ok to mock up clutch linkage I use a sump pan and crank bolt the pan in place as though its the motor put the crank thru it then slip the motor pulley on. This allows me to put a belt on so that I can't get my clutch pedal in the right palce and make the linkage rod here you see everything in place I marked the rod where to cut. I then cut it and tap both ends for 3/8 right and left hand threads and screw the rods ends into it. All my rods are hollow 1/2 o.d. aluminum stock cut to size. I simply tap it for the 3/8 rods ends.


Here is the cluch assy completed rod in place. Next I will show you how I do the guides for the motor pulley.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
George Herrin
Administrator
BTMRA Veteran
*****

Karma: +3/-1
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1254



WWW
« Reply #14 on: December 23, 2006, 04:55:32 pm »




Ok here is the placement of my front pulley guides. I hold it right up against the pulley without touching it. Tack the flanged nut in place. I do this to all three then remove the bolts and pulley and weld them on solid. This makes for a fast guide removale to change belts quickly if needed.



Here you see all three in place. Also you see a idler on the return side. This is more a guide to stop back lash when getting off the throttle at the end of the straights. it isn't tight against the belt you will see what i mean in up coming pics.



Here the belt is passing thru the idler. no pressure on it notice the depth of the belt. Now when the next three pics are up look at the depth with pressure on the belt.



Now notice with my finger slightly pushing on belt it sits deeper. So as you can see it is simply there to keep belt form whipping back and forth. The guide on this pulley is not as the others. I drilled a hole and tapped it for standard thread  and run a flanged nut on a 1/4 inch bolt screw it into the frame and the flange nut is the jam nut to keep it from backing out.
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George Herrin #6
3 time USLMRA National Champion
8 time ARMA National Champion
Herrin Mower Sports Racing Team/Fat Boyz Racing
Hohenwald Tn. 38462
wk... 615-446-6807
http://btmra.smfforfree2.com
http://www.eccarburetors.com/

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly
proclaiming . . "WOW ---What a Ride
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